diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
index df3574483..62ef96c54 100644
--- a/README.md
+++ b/README.md
@@ -17,8 +17,7 @@ There are 3 parts to this project, first the design of the circuit, second the c
   - [Debugging](#debugging)
   - [Building the Circuit](#building-the-circuit)
   - [Powering the circuit](#powering-the-circuit)
-  - [Known Issues](#known-issues)
-  - [To Do](#to-do)
+  - [Known Issues and ToDo's](#known-issues-and-todos)
   - [How the EMS works](#how-the-ems-works)
     - [IDs](#ids)
     - [1. EMS Polling](#1-ems-polling)
@@ -116,28 +115,27 @@ The schematic used (as designed by [susisstrolch](https://github.com/susisstrolc
 
 *Optionally I've also added 2 0.5A/72V polyfuses between the EMS and the two inductors L1 and L2 for extra protection.*
 
-And lastly if you don't fancy building the circuit [bbqkees](http://www.domoticz.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1736) can sell you one which looks like the photo below running on a Wemos D1 Mini:
+And lastly if you don't fancy building the circuit, [bbqkees](http://www.domoticz.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1736) can sell you one complete with SMD components which looks like the photo below when connected to a Wemos D1 Mini:
 
 ![WemosD1](doc/schematics/wemos_kees.png)
 
 ## Powering the circuit
 
-The circuit will work with both 3.3V and 5V. It's easiest to power it direct from the ESP's 3V3 line.
+My circuit will work with both 3.3V and 5V. It's easiest though to power directly from the ESP's 3V3 line.
 
-Powering the ESP can be either via a USB and PC or external 5V power supply or from the EMS itself using a buck step-down converter. The EMS provides about 15V AC current. It's tidier to run it from the EMS and I use a [Pololu D24C22F5](https://www.pololu.com/product/2858) which is 5V/2A buck step-down module. It is slightly overkill for what we need. The additional part of the circuit is shown below along with a working prototype on a breadboard using a NodeMCU2 with the additional LEDs:
+Powering the ESP89266 can be either via the USB from a PC or external 5V power supply or from the EMS line itself using a buck step-down converter. The EMS provides about 15V AC current. The advantage of using the EMS is obviously less power cables and it's neater to place inline with the thermostat. I use a [Pololu D24C22F5](https://www.pololu.com/product/2858) which is 5V/2A buck step-down module and probably slightly overkill for what we need. The additional part of the circuit is shown below along with an earlier breadboard prototype using a NodeMCU2 (with the additional LEDs):
 
 Power circuit | Example |
 --- | --- 
 ![Power circuit](doc/schematics/power.PNG) | ![Breadboard](doc/schematics/breadboard_example.png) |
 
-## Known Issues
+## Known Issues and ToDo's
 
-* Very infrequently an EMS write command is not sent, probably due to a collision somewhere in the UART between an incoming Rx and a Poll. The retries in the code fix that but it is annoying nevertheless and does need fixing.
+Some annoying issues that need fixing:
+
+* Very infrequently an EMS write command is not sent, probably due to a collision somewhere in the UART between an incoming Rx and a Poll. The retries in the code fix for now.
 * I've seen a few duplicate telegrams being processed. Again, it's harmless and not a big issue. But its still a bug.
 
-
-## To Do
-
 Here's my top things I'm still working on:
 
 * Make an ESPurna version. ESPurna is a lovely framework that takes care of the WiFi, MQTT, web server, telnet & debugging.