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updated power section
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README.md
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README.md
@@ -17,8 +17,7 @@ There are 3 parts to this project, first the design of the circuit, second the c
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- [Debugging](#debugging)
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- [Debugging](#debugging)
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- [Building the Circuit](#building-the-circuit)
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- [Building the Circuit](#building-the-circuit)
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- [Powering the circuit](#powering-the-circuit)
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- [Powering the circuit](#powering-the-circuit)
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- [Known Issues](#known-issues)
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- [Known Issues and ToDo's](#known-issues-and-todos)
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- [To Do](#to-do)
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- [How the EMS works](#how-the-ems-works)
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- [How the EMS works](#how-the-ems-works)
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- [IDs](#ids)
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- [IDs](#ids)
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- [1. EMS Polling](#1-ems-polling)
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- [1. EMS Polling](#1-ems-polling)
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@@ -116,28 +115,27 @@ The schematic used (as designed by [susisstrolch](https://github.com/susisstrolc
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*Optionally I've also added 2 0.5A/72V polyfuses between the EMS and the two inductors L1 and L2 for extra protection.*
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*Optionally I've also added 2 0.5A/72V polyfuses between the EMS and the two inductors L1 and L2 for extra protection.*
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And lastly if you don't fancy building the circuit [bbqkees](http://www.domoticz.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1736) can sell you one which looks like the photo below running on a Wemos D1 Mini:
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And lastly if you don't fancy building the circuit, [bbqkees](http://www.domoticz.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1736) can sell you one complete with SMD components which looks like the photo below when connected to a Wemos D1 Mini:
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## Powering the circuit
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## Powering the circuit
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The circuit will work with both 3.3V and 5V. It's easiest to power it direct from the ESP's 3V3 line.
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My circuit will work with both 3.3V and 5V. It's easiest though to power directly from the ESP's 3V3 line.
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Powering the ESP can be either via a USB and PC or external 5V power supply or from the EMS itself using a buck step-down converter. The EMS provides about 15V AC current. It's tidier to run it from the EMS and I use a [Pololu D24C22F5](https://www.pololu.com/product/2858) which is 5V/2A buck step-down module. It is slightly overkill for what we need. The additional part of the circuit is shown below along with a working prototype on a breadboard using a NodeMCU2 with the additional LEDs:
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Powering the ESP89266 can be either via the USB from a PC or external 5V power supply or from the EMS line itself using a buck step-down converter. The EMS provides about 15V AC current. The advantage of using the EMS is obviously less power cables and it's neater to place inline with the thermostat. I use a [Pololu D24C22F5](https://www.pololu.com/product/2858) which is 5V/2A buck step-down module and probably slightly overkill for what we need. The additional part of the circuit is shown below along with an earlier breadboard prototype using a NodeMCU2 (with the additional LEDs):
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Power circuit | Example |
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Power circuit | Example |
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--- | ---
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--- | ---
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## Known Issues
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## Known Issues and ToDo's
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* Very infrequently an EMS write command is not sent, probably due to a collision somewhere in the UART between an incoming Rx and a Poll. The retries in the code fix that but it is annoying nevertheless and does need fixing.
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Some annoying issues that need fixing:
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* Very infrequently an EMS write command is not sent, probably due to a collision somewhere in the UART between an incoming Rx and a Poll. The retries in the code fix for now.
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* I've seen a few duplicate telegrams being processed. Again, it's harmless and not a big issue. But its still a bug.
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* I've seen a few duplicate telegrams being processed. Again, it's harmless and not a big issue. But its still a bug.
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## To Do
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Here's my top things I'm still working on:
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Here's my top things I'm still working on:
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* Make an ESPurna version. ESPurna is a lovely framework that takes care of the WiFi, MQTT, web server, telnet & debugging.
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* Make an ESPurna version. ESPurna is a lovely framework that takes care of the WiFi, MQTT, web server, telnet & debugging.
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